Park 54, a restaurant located at 54 Park Avenue, is perfect for two occasions. One, those times when you really want to impress. And two, those times when your parents are paying.

The restaurant is located in a charming old house, but the dcor inside is surprisingly contemporary. The color scheme is bold and rich, with colorful art in jewel tones on the walls. The little touches, such as the gauzy curtains and a colorful stained glass window, make the atmosphere fun.

In fact, appearances seem to be key at Park 54 in every aspect. The presentation of the food was artistic. I ordered hoisin glazed duck breast served with pan-fried Shanghai noodles, shallots and a shiitake mushroom red wine reduction. My friend ordered bacon and horseradish crusted filet mignon served with cabernet jus, sauted greens and mashed potatoes. The dishes were artfully put together.

The beautiful presentation didn’t mislead, however ? the food was excellent. Both dishes, though well-done as we requested, remained tender. The texture of the bacon and horseradish on the filet mignon was the perfect touch.

While the menu changes frequently, the current one at least seems to offer little or no options for vegetarians, so they might want to go elsewhere.

An excellent option might be the Sunday brunch, which lasts from 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. It’s gourmet food in the same artistic atmosphere, but the prices are cut in half compared to the dinner entres.

Park 54 provides excellent food in a fun atmosphere, and it’s worth a look if you have the cash. The average price of an entre is about $20-$22, and appetizers are about $10.

Smith can be reached at

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